Cosmetics

Plants are an incomparable source of natural compounds that may be of particular interest as innovative new bioactive compounds for cosmetic applications and also as a substitute for potential harmful synthetic compounds used as ingredients (synthetic antioxidants, preservatives, UV filters…) for which many reservations are made as to their safety.

Natural plant ingredients supply is dependant of lots of parameters that can limit their production or accessibility. The cosmetic group research of BBV develop of an alternative sourcing of plant biomasses, via a biotechnological process to produce natural ingredients for cosmetics, in a sustainable, stable, secure and safe approach. Plant cell cultures are established from different parts of the plant (roots, stem, leaf, seeds…) and cultured under controlled conditions. Culture mediums are optimized and cells elicited, to enhance biomasses development and accumulation of specialized metabolites in cells. Metabolite profiles of callus or suspension cells extracts are analysed in parallel of different biological tests to identify components involved in biological activities. A focused is done on regional species (from Centre Val de Loire Region) such flax or plants for which natural supply presents difficulties or limitation such as rare grapevines. Cultures in bioreactors let us to analyze first stapes of the scale up.

                 

Figure from Bose et al (2021- Frontiers in Plant Sciences) : Kinetics main lignins accumulation in cell suspension cultures of flax and Pearson correlation analysis (PCC) of the relation between the main phytochemicals flax in vitro cell culture extracts and the different antioxidant and anti-aging assays *** significant p < 0.001; ** significant p < 0.01; * significant p < 0.05.

• To explore the metabolic diversity of medicinal plants
• To establish plant cell in vitro cultures: new and controlled plant biomasses sourcing
• To develop metabolomic and biological activities characterization of plant cell lines extracts
• To use plant cell lines to explore metabolic pathways
• To valorize plant cell cultures for cosmetic ingredients

A benchmark procedure to produce plant natural ingredients in plant cell suspensions for cosmeticals